NEWS: S.B.S. Model 1/72 FIAT G.50 by Richard Mendes

[Editor]

Kicking-off the new forum articles, the honors go to Richard Mendes. This build is certainly one of Richard's best, and also, finally an accurate looking Fiat G.50 in 1/72! Great job SBS! Richard brings us 15 photo of this splendid build. If you examine some of the photos Richard provided you can see the intricate detail of the model; it would have been nice if Richard had weathered the model a bit to bring out the detail. Also examine the top and bottom views of the model next to the testors paint bottles to get an idea of how well Richard was able to apply the camo, in such a small scale, quiet amazing and rivaling some of Jean's work.

Click the image to view:


Enjoy,

[Vincent Fiore]

Wonderful job Richard.

[RetiredInKalifornia]

Vince:

I've done extensive weathered builds before, considered doing so with this one but would had taken more time that what I'd wanted to spend on it, did spray on engine blow-by well as lightly dry-brush on Testors Flat Aluminum on main wings adjacent to roots, check the photos again. I still have the Italian Kits Wings FIAT G.50V yet to build, waiting for them to rerelease the kit, absolutely will be the last G.50 model kit I'll build, 1967 Airfix G.50bis was the first.

The Airfix G.50bis kit as released in 1967 was a bloody bad model, came with defective water decals, no ink carrier film on the paper, didn't have other Regia Aeronautica Italian marking decals to apply on then, they wouldn't be available for years, did build it but man was it a disaster Since 2006 I''d built a dozen Airfix kits, all came out good though every single one was a bear to build, soooo glad I'll never build any again!

Whilst discussing my Airfix FIAT G.50bis builds here's 'round the clock' photos of one built in 2011, my SEM Model FIAT G.12T build in progress shown in some photos as well:

[Editor]

In general the Airfix Fiat G.50 looks like one but the engine cowling is too small, the fuselage is too big and there's no detail - it's basically a toy and in no way comparable to the SBS kit.

[RetiredInKalifornia]

In general the Airfix Fiat G.50 looks like one but the engine cowling is too small, the fuselage is too big and there's no detail - it's basically a toy and in no way comparable to the SBS kit.

...not only that it was one of the worst kits produced during the 1960s; Revell's FIAT CR.42 & Macchi C.200 were step better but still lacking even in their day. If any of the Japanese kit makers produced any "Italian" during the 1960s I'd bet whatever it was would become a classic standard; why Italstamp/Aliplast/Italaerei didn't market any G.50 kit during that period remains a mystery other than competing with Airfix's & Revell's offerings, certainly they would had done better, why Heller didn't offer any "Italians" then remains a mystery as well.

Heller BTW arguably marketed the best 1/72 scale Junkers Ju 52 kit according to my research, it comes up wanting but not enough to dissuade me for maybe building one after I'd built everything else on my "wish list" before retiring from modeling building c.2021-22. I'd wanted to try building another Airfix kit but thing's too clunky, applying decals over corrugated surfaces was an absolute nightmare

[Editor]

... applying decals over corrugated surfaces was an absolute nightmare

Can be done well, use a setting solution first (to get rid of silvering) and then use a solvent (or use the solvent above and below each decal) like the one below and the results could be outstanding, the decal should look painted on. You need to apply multiple applications over the decal, allow to dry fully 1-2 hrs after each application, the carrier will dissolve completely and the pigment will apply like a paint.

[RetiredInKalifornia]

... applying decals over corrugated surfaces was an absolute nightmare

Can be done well, use a setting solution first (to get rid of silvering) and then use a solvent (or use the solvent above and below each decal) like the one below and the results could be outstanding, the decal should look painted on. You need to apply multiple applications over the decal, allow to dry fully 1-2 hrs after each application, the carrier will dissolve completely and the pigment will apply like a paint.

Hadn't seen this product before. Big rage 55 or so years ago was Solvaset, used it towards end of my first model building run early in 1969. I'd deliberately avoiding building any more Ju 52 models because of difficulty applying decals over corrugated surfaces; towards end of my second run in 1992 used thinned Elmer's Glue to "float" thick film decals, worked OK using it occasionally particularly on Tauro Decals, they're very good but carrier on some sheets are too thick.

[Vinman100]

Very nice Richard! Great Camo scheme!!

[Editor]

... applying decals over corrugated surfaces was an absolute nightmare

Can be done well, use a setting solution first (to get rid of silvering) and then use a solvent (or use the solvent above and below each decal) like the one below and the results could be outstanding, the decal should look painted on. You need to apply multiple applications over the decal, allow to dry fully 1-2 hrs after each application, the carrier will dissolve completely and the pigment will apply like a paint.

Hadn't seen this product before. Big rage 55 or so years ago was Solvaset, used it towards end of my first model building run early in 1969. I'd deliberately avoiding building any more Ju 52 models because of difficulty applying decals over corrugated surfaces; towards end of my second run in 1992 used thinned Elmer's Glue to "float" thick film decals, worked OK using it occasionally particularly on Tauro Decals, they're very good but carrier on some sheets are too thick.

Solvaset is too strong, it'll burn through allot of decals particularly thin ones - you have to use Solvaset liberally. Mr. Mark Softer is a little more forgiving but will eventually burn through also if you keep using it. A few people who seen my Fiat G.55A asked if I had even used decals at all!

[RetiredInKalifornia]

...Solvaset is too strong, it'll burn through allot of decals particularly thin ones - you have to use Solvaset liberally. Mr. Mark Softer is a little more forgiving but will eventually burn through also if you keep using it. A few people who seen my Fiat G.55A asked if I had even used decals at all!

...was why when I'd tried using it again when resumed building models in 1978 couldn't use it on thin matt decals. Solvaset worked somewhat OK on thick carrier decals common during the 1950s & 1960s well as on the early Microscales, didn't work that well on ETRL/ESCIs. What I always try doing is trim close as possible around screen printed parts; if the painted surface is too rough smear on watered down Elmer's glue to smooth it out apply the decals, then apply decal softener (i.e. Microsol, works OK for me). The "non standard technology" decals indeed are bears, do everything possible to avoid using them. SEM Model's decals are highest quality I've worked with to date insofar as the screen printing but the thick carrier film has to be cut close as possible around printed areas; I don't use Microsol on them at all, Elmer's seems to work best. Letraset dry decals promised to be the modeler's panacea when they came out during the late 1960s if y'all got factory fresh sets, once exposed to heat & sunshine all bets were off on durability, SUPERMODEL had them in with their first Macchi C.202/205 issues, by time I'd got around building them in the early 1980s they'd dried out.

[Editor]

Very nice Richard! Great Camo scheme!!

Vince, your old account is still active, use that one instead.

[D520]

Very nice job on this "Freccia" Richard, a handy airbrush job. My only criticism is concerning the Verde anticorrosion which was light gray on all the Fiat fighters . best regards.

[Editor]

Here's the reference Jean is referring to:

Color Guide - G.50 (Riccardo Trotta)

[RetiredInKalifornia]

Very nice job on this "Freccia" Richard, a handy airbrush job. My only criticism is concerning the Verde anticorrosion which was light gray on all the Fiat fighters . best regards.

Here's the reference Jean is referring to:

Color Guide - G.50 (Riccardo Trotta)

...Interiors of several of my FIAT G.50 builds indeed were spray painted with hand-mixed grays though after seeing internet photos of some other modeler G.50 builds well as not being entirely convinced the interiors of every and all G.50s were painted gray sooo in a "just in case" move defaulted to spray painting FIAT model aircraft interiors with Humbrol 78 Matt Cockpit Green replicating Verde Anticorrosione the S.B.S. G.50 & SEM Model G.12Ts builds being the latest examples.

As to interiors of all FIAT fighters being painted gray, the 1/72 scale Italeri FIAT CR.42 modeler's guide & history print supplement included in with the first kit release includes interior photos of the Museo Storico dell'Aeronautica Militare's CR.42 clearly show fuselage interior areas in a Verde Anticorrosione-ish shade though fuselage tube bracings & cockpit seat are painted a blue-greyish shade. The Museo had access to period technical manuals & orders well as enough painted aircraft sections & artifacts to "correctly" paint the interior of their FIAT CR.42, whether wrong for me to assume some G.50 interiors were likewise painted am ready to stand "Guilty As Charged!" that along with laziness when it came to hand mixing any more gray paint still unsure whether it came close to that painted on the Real McCoy's!

Also, when it came to painting Reggiane fighter interiors I did indeed follow the STORMO painting guide in employing Model Master 1716 Pale Green repilcating FS 34227 though defaulted to Humbrol 78 with my recent forever final vintage Italaerei Reggiane 2001 kit conversion builds of the Delta & Oxygen Bomb variants as didn't want to pay any pretty pennies to buy another bottle of 1716 subsequently tossing it out not having any other planned use of it.

[Editor]

Guilty as charged! you are hereby sentenced to 5 more years of hard labor ... building models Dismissed!