Post in-progress or completed model pics here
The wing lights should have been moulded on the clear parts tree with a cut out on the wing tips.
This would have improved this kit since changing it for a more realistic appearance requires cutting the wing tip and a lot of extra effort.
I did it since it is an improvement . This is shown here ( painted underneath to resemble a coloured light bulb ) with Clear Sprue glued into the cut out
( then sanded flush to resemble an actual wing tip position light )
Hasegawa in its current 1/48th scale kit releases has changed its approach for wing tip lights in new releases to now use clear plastic for the wing tip lights.
The next photo shows the influence of the build article on Hyperscale from Werner Scheibling - Radiator struts are now correct and to scale .
Mainly 2 Vertical and one Horizontal ( as per the kind article by Jean Barby , Vince Tassone and Werner Scheibling )
The 20mm Cannon Blisters added to the underside of the Wing - thanks Jean Barby !!
Paint added - also started the process of getting ready to flip the aircraft upside down - and lengthen the existing machine gun slot
on the Lower Wing - so its a Veltro Cannon Slot - and add another slot at the side - for the ejection slot for the ejected Cannon Shelll Links .
Plan to add perhaps thin etch across the lower part of the longer slot and create a ' third ' slot with more ease .
The trouble is that you should have done it before assembling the wings. It is much easier to work that way: Thin the plastic with a Dremel mini driller from inside the wing, then on the other side, draw the whole shape of the ejection holes, open with saw and new hobby knife blade. Once the whole opening is done, using thin plasticard, built the separations. Once dry, sand gently. I think I have a pic in my 205 here on Stormo which shows how it looks. Considering the state of your built, it will be difficult to get a decent result because of the strength of the plastic. I suggest you glue some plastic in to the existing hole to make it disappear then using black decal cut to shape, create a correct shell ejection chute. I hope that my explanations are understandable, best regards.
D520 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 18, 2021 9:07 amThe trouble is that you should have done it before assembling the wings. It is much easier to work that way: Thin the plastic with a Dremel mini driller from inside the wing, then on the other side, draw the whole shape of the ejection holes, open with saw and new hobby knife blade. Once the whole opening is done, using thin plasticard, built the separations. Once dry, sand gently. I think I have a pic in my 205 here on Stormo which shows how it looks. Considering the state of your built, it will be difficult to get a decent result because of the strength of the plastic. I suggest you glue some plastic in to the existing hole to make it disappear then using black decal cut to shape, create a correct shell ejection chute. I hope that my explanations are understandable, best regards.
Problem Solved , Sir
4 Holes opened up -2 x etch fitted in largest Slot to create ' third hole ' . - Job Done
Peddinghaus Decals added - didn't take the chance with using the old 1990's Hasegawa Decals
I used the Hasegawa Paint Instructions as the Peddinghaus Decal Sheet Paint Scheme only shows one side of the Fighter
Moskit DB605 exhausts added - which was a lot of bloody work with cutting the exhausts opening lengthwise longer
and to fit the Moskit Exhausts properly , the Fuselage opening had to be trimmed wider as well .........
However , only a few parts to add , namely etch gun sights and the Aerial Wiring with Canopy Strut
( incl Number 1 on the Landing Wheel Doors - Peddinghaus don't supply that Decal !! )
Oh and now it has the landing flaps deployed in the down position .........
nearly there .........
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Wow, that looks gorgeous. I love the way you work - clean lines. Send in a write up when you can I'd like to do a Feature on this build.
2 Eduard Etch Gun sights added to nose - and the Number 1 Group Number added to the Wheel Door
Also the Eduard etch Canopy Strut and the 2 Quick-Release Handles - added - with a better view of the Cockpit
The last "extra" I used on the kit are Moskit engine exhausts.
I bought thse last year during the lockdown ( while working non-stop in the NHS in the Operating Theatre doing Anaesthetics )
They cost me £ 20.23 + £ 14.85 Customs Fee plus the Recorded Delivery Shipping fee by Surface ( nothing was going airmaiil )
I also admit they are actually the Moskit Exhausts made for the licence built DB601 originally made for the 1/48 D4Y Judy by Fine Molds .
So they are not strictly DB605 exhausts but look superb .
They might look wonderful, but they required modifying the fuselage sides to accept them.
I widened the engine exhaust opening, thinned the section at the front to make clearance for the pipes and kept adjusting the fit of the pipes until I had them where I wanted them.
I left the lower cowl piece unattached until after I was done painting. That way I could add the exhausts later and not have to mask them while painting the camouflage. The lower cowl fits perfectly, so I was not concerned about attaching it later after it was fully painted and finished.
I will do a review later at the start of the month - but my thoughts are that the HASEGAWA 1/48 MACCHI C.205 VELTRO by Hasegawa
( which was released back in 1994 ) has the problem that in order to cover the whole Folgore / Veltro lineage using as few different moulds as possible, Hasegawa produced a somewhat strange hybrid, which is never completely right when it comes to shape and situation of the various access panels and hatches. The Veltro's retractable tail wheel made a new fuselage mould necessary. The Kit needed 4 reshaped oval access panels for each upper wing
and also 3 cannon / shell case link ejection port plus 2 blisters each lower wing .
The weakest points of the kit are the spartan cockpit interior, the undersized and unusable exhaust stacks and the clumsy undercarriage legs, which are additionally riddled with ejector pin marks.
However - this Kit is nearly perfect in shape and dimensions and shows off some of the finest surface detail you can get with a 1/48 scale .
I was lucky that I spotted that Edaurd had produced the 1/48 C.202 Folgore BRASSIN wheel well set - which fits the C.205 with ease - it made a huge difference to the finished Model - I am very pleased and now have to try to find some 1/48 Diorama accessories like Corn Stalks and the usual green-line grass for a Airfield Base setting !!
09139, 09444, and 09708 build early Macchi C.202 with early stabilizers. 09132 and 09504 build later Macchi C.202 with late stabilizers. 09133, 09178, 09184, 9243, 09271, 09594, and 09754 have late stabilizers and revised cowl, exhausts, and wing cannon to build Macchi C.205.