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Hello,

after long time, here is my new topic. I have choose new Special Hobby kit Fiat Br. 20 Cicogna in 1/48 scale. Building is really difficult



...side window... I have glued clear parts with cyanoacrylate glue:



...rough sanding:



...and final result after polishing:

...reinforcing the fuselage:

another pictures:

cracked form







Front of fuselage:





Rear part of fuselage





Dry fitting of fuselage:

It is very "Special Hobby"...



I just started fight with their Fiat G.50.
Luckily plastic is soft, and You cand do a lot of with it.

Best,

Jerzy

My dear friend I just came trought this built and it has been a real PIMA! It has been a very long time since I had seen such a bad fit on a model. Take great care with the front turret and make sure that you can slide it inside the nose without cracking the wall behind, otherwise you are obliged to put the turret in, when you will glue your fuselage halves. Be aware also that the plots to fix the wings are more of a trouble than an help, and I strongly suggest you remove those and work on a better system. The wing butt drove me nuts. Please feel free to contact me if you feel like, I will share my experience with pleasure. Bye for now, jean.

Hello Jean,

thank you for your help I have done masking on clear parts and I want start with airbruhing interior...

Quit your whining you big babies. I do know that at least Jean has done battle with many a POS or Pig kit. I just finished the Baltimore, now hot pins under my finger nails would be a pleasure.

At least after I put the cylinders on the crankcase the assembly fit inside the cowling. Actually fit! (I always assemble the engine first - The Baltimore cylinders had to be cut in half..literally!). On the down side, the row of mounting holes are too close together and the back row does not fit, I had to reverse the direction they faces. But who can see the back row anyway.

As for the windows, mine all fit perfectly and just let a thin little liquid cement run around the edge by capillary action.

As for who can see what, to hell with a lot of the interior. My big issue was the top turret being able to be dropped in after painting. Based on how it goes together, dropping the turret in could mean it drops in never to be taken out.

Soooooo... I took the lower floor that goes over the lower gun tub/jaw (which I will close) cut it and turned it upside down. I glued the base on the turret bottom clear part and test fitted the height. Glued my new turret base in. When it is all done, but for the turret, I'll sand around the base to make sure it is a close drop fit, paint and drop it in.

Jean, tell us more about the nose turret. Can you putr the turret base in, then after painting assemble the nose gune and slip the clear part over?

OK Steven! here is the story of the front turret.
Firt step masking, fun all the way as the posts are hardly visible; Then the agencement of the MG is not correct and should be worked out if you want to see your MG hanging out of the turret like on the pictures.
When you close the fuselage you have to ad the front turret bulkhead and, if you follow the instructions, you must ad the turret at this time of the assembling process. As I did not proceed that way because former experiences taught me that: when a model needs a lot of sanding, usually some dust makes its way to where you do not excpect it, and when you remove your masks from the transparencies you are done! So I let the turret apart and yes I could used a coton swap to clean the insidefront floor and side glasses with future at the end of the show.
Now back to the problem I had: when I tried to put the turret in place it did not fit anymore, pushing things a little bit I heard a tremendous crack and the whole bulkhead went free! Ha ha what a great fishing party! Because once you have catch the fish, then you have to put the thing back in its former place, plus a security space for the turret. That's what I did after many painful trials. I managed to cut an ark of circle based on the turret diameter, glue it at the turret base to prevent any disgraceful gap with the fuselage. Mission done but geeee, a tricky one!
I hope this will help.

Jean,

Now you have built both, is the Special Hobby Br.20 better, the same, or worse than the Alphaflight Br.20?

Chris Busbridge wrote:Jean,

Now you have built both, is the Special Hobby Br.20 better, the same, or worse than the Alphaflight Br.20?

Hello Chris. Despite the price and the fact that the kit is in resin, I will say the Alphflight comes together much better than the SH so I will put it first.

Thanks Jean! That's good to know... I have both Alphaflight kits (as payment for the boxarts and decals). Although Alphaflight are no more, I'm tempted to go ahead and build their 'M' kit, as I think it's much easier on the eye.

Chris Busbridge wrote:Thanks Jean! That's good to know... I have both Alphaflight kits (as payment for the boxarts and decals). Although Alphaflight are no more, I'm tempted to go ahead and build their 'M' kit, as I think it's much easier on the eye.

Yes Chris go ahead with the M, and you 'll see why the Infinity is a great tool when you 'll reach the painting session. use a well diluted paint and a low pressure and work close to the model. Enjoy!

Thanks for the advice Jean. BTW, I've just used the infinity to do smoke rings on a PCM 205 kit. Very happy with the result!

Almost picked this kit up at a show over the weekend. Show price was £20 UK. Im kicking myself now. Yours looks a beauty,
...Guy

To Steven Modeldad Eisenman:

I thing you have done mistake with airplane floor... Special Hobby is right:

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What do you think about this picture? I think, the picture looks similar as the kit floor....