Reggiane Re.2000 GA 1/72

emanuele · Post by **emanuele** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 5:22 am

Hi all,
here you can find some pictures (sprue, decals and box) about the new Iatleri model of Reggiane 2000 GA

Best regards

Emanuele

http://www.italeri.com/product.aspx?item=1272S

flyingbabydoc · Post by **flyingbabydoc** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 4:16 pm

Hi Emanuele

Got one of those at home. Will start working on it next week! Seems a great build. I particularly liked the instructions with photos instead of diagrams. Quite interesting.

If it turns out not a completely disaster, I will post some pictures here.

Alex

Post by **Editor** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 5:21 pm

Ciao Emanuele and welcome! Thank you for your post. I'm looking forward to seeing this kit as well as several others recently announced by Italeri, below is a related link:

<a href="http://stormomagazine.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=490">Italeri News</a>

Capitano · Post by **Capitano** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 7:30 pm

Review of kit at hyperscale.

http://www.hyperscale.com/2009/reviews/ ... wgp_1.html

flyingbabydoc · Post by **flyingbabydoc** » Fri May 01, 2009 3:38 am

Hello all

So here are some pictures of how my Re-2000 turned out. Sorry about the quality of the pictures, this is my reserve camera since our cats "played" with the good one a bit too much. Anyways, your comments are always appreciated.

Mind you, I am still beginning to learn how to use airbrushes, PE, etc. so keep that in mind in your comments.

Cheers all

Alex

warhawk · Post by **warhawk** » Fri May 01, 2009 10:04 am

Paint job looks OK, especially for a beginner. My only critic is that the canopy glass is too thick for 1/72 scale, and would look much better as closed.

Post by **Editor** » Fri May 01, 2009 12:12 pm

Hi Alex,
One of the most difficult exercises in modeling is to do the RA three tone camo scheme. I've only tried it in 1/48 scale and find it hard enough. Great job, great kit! Thank you.

flyingbabydoc · Post by **flyingbabydoc** » Mon May 04, 2009 5:40 am

Hi guys

Thanks for your comments and encouragement. I do think that the canopy is too thick. It is one of my objectives for future models to learn how to "thin" them with heat (I have seen some pictures of how it can be done but haven't tried yet myself).

@ Vince: thanks a lot. I did find the camouflage quite difficult. However, I take immense pleasure in every little achievement and this kit was by far the most complicated painting job I have done. So I am happy about it. Modelling is a great hobby but I have little time left for it with so many calls and long nights operating, and the family, so I reckon my progress will be slow - which is Ok with me!

Cheers all

Alex

Capitano · Post by **Capitano** » Tue May 05, 2009 9:04 am

Great paint job. These mottles can be tricky. Good job. If I could make one suggestion on the decals. The silvering effect can be lessened by having a shiny clear coat rather than a flat finish. Flat finishes have little pores and grains that make them, well, flat. Decals don't set well on flat finishes. Also try some decal set such as Micro-Sol or other similar product to help gel up the decals so they lay down better.

.

flyingbabydoc · Post by **flyingbabydoc** » Tue May 05, 2009 9:27 am

Hi Capitano, thanks for your post. I did use the decal-set solution from Mastermodel but I am quite disappointed with the results, as you can obviously see in the model. I appreciate your suggestion about the shiny clear coat, will try in my future "experiments".

Thanks once again!

Alex

Post by **Editor** » Tue May 05, 2009 9:09 pm

Hi Alex,
You can eliminate silvering by spraying a coat of gloss over the area you plan to apply the decals. Then use a setting solution. I use Mr. Mark Softer (a Gunze product). Apply a little solution under and over the decals and let the decals set for 20-30 mins. The decals will look to shrivel a little but don't worry about it, the decals will set firmly. After the decals dry, spray another coat of gloss over the decals (I sometimes omit this step) and then a flat.

What kind of work do you that keeps you out on long nights and many calls?

flyingbabydoc · Post by **flyingbabydoc** » Wed May 06, 2009 6:47 am

Hi Vince

Thanks for the tips. I will make sure I use the gloss in my next models. I do have a few others completed projects which are a bit better but I am a bit embarassed to show these photos here on STORMO... Maybe under the heading "how not to build a model"!!!

Which gloss do you use? I have tried to concentrate on Modelmaster products but I believe Gunze products are better.

In regards to your other question, I am a consultant (attending) paediatric surgeon and I am working at the University hospital in Dresden. My main areas are paediatric plastic surgery and oncology. I am often on call, sometimes in-house but mostly at home "on alert": I have to come in for any surgery that needs to be performed, besides my regular patients and hours during the day. At night we operate on kids with fractures, severed arteries and tendons, appendicitis, testicular torsions, ventricular shunts, burns, newborns with malformations, etc. I love what I do but time becomes a precious commodity!

Cheers

Alex

GAJouette · Post by **GAJouette** » Wed May 06, 2009 9:48 am

Alex,
Beautiful little RE.2000 you've got there.Love the camouflage.On the subject of clear coating before decaling.I have a tip for you thatt works great on my projects.Use Future for your clear coating,this stuff is intended to be used as a floor polish but it's great for model projects too.You can brush it on or spray with an airbrush whichever works best for you.The trick is not to apply too much at one time.Future is very thin and will seek it's own level,too heavy a coat will puddle up on you if you're not careful.You can mix it with a water based flat to get a semi gloss for you finishing coat too.I use a mixture of Future and Polly Sale Flat for my projects but suppose any water based flat would work as well.I don't know if Future is availible in Germany are not,I do know it's sold in the UK under the name of Cleer by Johnson&Johnson.I'd imagine it's there too or some like product.I hope this helps you in any upcoming projects.Take care my friend.
Regards,
Gregory Jouette

flyingbabydoc · Post by **flyingbabydoc** » Wed May 06, 2009 12:18 pm

Hi Gregory

Thank you very much for the comments. I did use a product that is supposed to be "future" here in Germany, it is called "glänzer". I am not sure if this is the same thing. I will try to check the website from the company that produces future and see if I can find the best similar product here.

Thanks again!

Alex

Post by **Editor** » Wed May 06, 2009 8:22 pm

Hi Alex,
Any type of gloss will do however I prefer Polly Scale flat. It really has a very-flat finish to it. I’ve tried many different flats but a sheen is often seen when a gloss is applied. Polly Scale eliminates entirely the sheen that can be seen when a gloss is used.

I’m honored to have you on the forum! I appreciate what you do. You have a fellow surgeon in Stefano on the site, whose also pressed for time and Stormo is very lucky to have him. Thank you for the time you take to share your thoughts and images of your work.